Seventh Summer Week on Martha’s Vineyard

Egret on Sengekontacket Pond (photo by Jordan Miller)

Egret on Sengekontacket Pond (photo by Jordan Miller)

Lola above Inkwell Beach

Lola above Inkwell Beach

Caption to come

Lola Morell, my granddaughter, was reading Counting by 7’s when the extended Kast family assembled for the seventh time last week on Martha’s Vineyard. Seven, fourteen …it’s hard, but no harder than explaining how and why we convene, fourteen of us this year. We have the usual measure of jobs lost or found, divorces threatened or accomplished, lovers abandoned or sought, babies borne, illnesses survived. Most of us share a last name, but there the common features end. Some travel all night to spend two days. Some come once or twice and not again. Some stay the week. Some swim. All cook. Most men play chess at night and sleep by day. This year they did the dishes daily.

left to right: Erica, Maggie, Ari, Avi, Byron, Oliver, Richard, Kim, Eun

left to right: Erica, Maggie, Ari, Avi, Byron, Oliver, Richard, Kim, Eun

Perhaps the family’s origin in conflict knits our shaggy group together. I was the third wife of Eric Kast, an Austrian Jew kicked out in 1938. The sons of his first two marriages married once or twice and produced four children altogether. My bio-children total three, with three grandchildren from the lot. We are four generations in this photo, from me, the oldest, seventy-six, to Avi, seventeen months.Avi’s dad, at forty-one, is five years older than his aunt, my youngest daughter, Erica.

Ari and Avi

Ari and Avi

Missing from the group photo: Anton and Lola, friends Sasha and Jordan. (Just try herding cats.) Twenty-one, twenty-eight, thirty-five.

Seven years ago I wished for a reunion for my 70th birthday. Thrown together, far from land, the family sensed utopia, a noplace where the days lacked names, and hours took a break. It’s still that way for me, but my time out is located in a very real and complicated place—an island threatened by drowning in the rising waters of its sea as well as the rising prices of its land.

Terra incognita

Terra incognita

For others in our group, the towns, wild lands and beaches of the island are still terra incognita, the week delimited by a room, a chess board and a bed. Forty-two, forty-nine, fifty-four.  Our distinct interests lead us on separate paths. I think this is what keeps us coming back.

ivicoveredVW

VW covered in ivy, Oak Bluffs

Sasha and Erica on Sengekontacket Pond

Erica and Kim the furthest out at Longpoint Beach

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You Can Get Away From It All—and Find It Too on Martha’s Vineyard

View of Pond from deck of Lewis Camp

I just ended a week with Carter Frank and Jan and John Leary in the Lewis camp on Deep Bottom Cove of Tisbury Great Pond. During the ’40s I spent some summers  on this  pond, and the biggest change I noted is in the regrowth of trees, so that cabins are now hidden deep in foliage, connected by rutted dirt roads that keep them free from the Vineyard’s infamous crowds. The island has more enclaves, ponds, forests and reserves than I could discover in a lifetime, and I am grateful to organizations like the Trustees of Reservations and the Land Bank Commission for keeping them safe from development.

Carter swimming

Carter and I were once modern dance colleagues. Now she’s a swimmer, Tai Chi practitioner and photographer. I do yoga and write. Jan also writes. John paints and takes photos. The four of us planned to work half the time and play the other.

The first night, eating scrambled eggs by candlelight, we learned to  light the camp’s gaslights over the stove and to wash up in the dark. After that it was battery-powered lanterns or candles to light the way to bed and nothing but sleep from sundown to dawn. As an early morning riser and writer, I led the way both down and up.

Dining room table with candles.

Quickly we all adapted to life without internet or TV, though all had better cell coverage than I and stayed in touch with kids and friends. The days began to flow, with trips to the West Tisbury Farmers Market for Carter and me and runs to Menemsha for John and Jan, yielding great dinners of striped bass, cod, and mammoth shrimp and scallops. Baby zucchini and turnips on the grill were John’s special treat. I’ve never spent a week with such easy sharing of cooking, shopping, and cleaning up.

Carter in kayak

The brackish pond is separated from the ocean by a narrow strip of land, and Carter took a kayak twice the whole way to the beach.The rest of us made smaller, easier water forays and walked the distance to the ocean through the Longpoint Wildlife Refuge.

Carter and Jan at market market

Longpoint Beach, sparsely populated, abuts its own pond, so you can look in one direction out to South America and in the other take a calm, stillwater swim.

We all swam in the pond off our own slim sandy beach.

Carter on Longpoint Beach

In August, when the pond is opened to the ocean, tides flow in and out, and this beach gets long and flat. The practice of breaching ponds goes way back, and in my memory it was done by men with shovels in the ’40s. All helped out. A video of the cut at Edgartown Great Pond can be viewed on Facebook at http://on.fb.me/1j3hMPo.

Pond and ocean breezes kept our decks free from bugs, and often we were happy to spend hours reading books (or Kindles). Unlike some summer rentals, the Lewis camp was full of family lore: photos, artifacts, kitchen batterie to die for, cookbooks, books for children, games we didn’t even start to play. I accomplished what I hoped: to prepare a novel manuscript for Kevin McIlvoy’s “novel workout” in the fall, and Jan also finished one whole revision of her novel. Carter could be seen each morning doing Tai Chi on the deck, and John’s camera on its tripod was set up indoors and out.

Stairs to second floor

At such a place you feel a guest in someone’s home. I want to do the whole thing once again.

Living room, Lewis Camp

Deck, Lewis Camp

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Puerto Rico Redux

Calle del Sol in Old San Juan

When I was a college student in the ’50s I visited San Juan for a few weeks, and last week I was back, attending the “resident” part of a Vermont College of Fine Arts low-residency MFA—Writing program, of which I am an alum. Even sixty years can’t change the narrow, cobblestone streets of Old San Juan or the Spanish colonial architecture, the 16th century citadel of El Morro or the closely packed crypts and statues of the Cementario Santa Maria Magdalena. But traffic now chokes the streets. Signs indicate ongoing projects to improve La Perla, the infamous slum, but brilliantly colored houses still conceal poverty and drug trade, all washed by ocean surf.

Cemetary Maria Magdalen

La Perla

U.S. fast food and clothing chains have invaded Old San Juan, and diamond merchants have proliferated, shop after shop catering to the flood of tourists that pour from giant cruise ships each day. To feed these travelers, San Juan’s restaurants serve “Latin fusion,” as the guidebooks call it, but really it’s placeless, homeless food that shoves aside the native comida criolla. In Old San Juan I yearned for remembered beans and rice flavored with sofrito, a mix of ham, root vegetables and native achiote; soupy asapao; green plantains fried crisp and ripe ones stewed to a sweet caramel.

Casa del Libro

El Libro y su Encuadernacion

Artist’s Book: Creacion del Mundo/Creation of the World

Beneath the glitzy, Americanized surface, leading Puerto Ricans lead their lives with depth and dedication. We visited the Casa del Libro, founded in the ’50s, a museum housing a collection of rare books published from the 15th century on and preserved from the ravages of tropical climate. This history is told in a gorgeous volume called El Libro y su Encuadernacion, The Book and its Binding. An exhibit of artists’ books from many lands included a beautiful illustration from the biblical Song of Songs: “I sought him whom my soul loves. I sought him, but I found him not.”

Artist’s Book: “I sought him, but I found him not.”

Workshops and lectures with faculty Richard McCann and Mary Ruefle, outstanding writers and teachers,  were held daily wherever we were. We were privileged to meet Hector Feliciano, world citizen and author of The Lost Museum: the Nazi Conspiracy to Steal the World’s Greatest Works of Art. Hector invited us to his airy, spacious house and up to his roof, telling us the story of his long search and the obsession required to unearth each vanished work of art. Equally contemporary was Yolanda Pizarro’s passionate attention to the stories of Puerto Rico’s enslaved black women, told in her book, Las Negras. Lecture became workshop as she urged us to consider our own names, their origins, meanings and the ways they define us. She asked us to write a short poem about the names. I wrote:

My middle name is Helen, hides
My grandma, also Helen, who conceals
In turn the girl who shamed her by
Her girlish birth, while
Wedging her name between my first and last.

These lines turned out to encapsulate my novel, I Never Knew You Had a Girl, in which the protagonist, based on my mother, suffers the self-loathing that comes from having a mother who doesn’t think much of girls.

El Yunque

Morning Sun on Bamboo

Americanization ends at the edge of El Yunque, the rainforest, where we spent the second four days. Though a U.S.National Forest, El Yunque is also a world unto itself, a place where bamboo whispers, life-giving water flows day and night, and plants win. Excellent local guides, Robin and his son Daniel, have befriended the plants and know the names and habits of each. They break off bits of edibles for us to crunch and offer pods of bromeliads for us to nurture back home. Waterfalls tumble down the steep mountains and pool in cool basins, one just below the Casa Cabuy, the Ecolodge where we stay. There cook Carmen prepares marvelous comida criolla: papaya and mango for breakfast as well as eggs and avena, oatmeal cooked with milk and sugar, served soupy. For lunch and dinner we eat beans, rice and fish or chicken, once pork, always plantain, green and crisp or ripe and mellow.

Who would have thought a writing residency would require rock scrambling skills? I didn’t, and didn’t believe it until I stripped to my bathing suit (No phone? No photos?), noticed my glasses (“I’ll take them,” said Mary, and stuffed multiple pairs into a plastic bag, the bag into her swimsuit), and edged bleary-eyed down a mud path to slippery rocks and water. If the current was mentioned I didn’t hear it over the rumble of cascading water. Nearly across I saw the bank retreat and called for help. A stranger dragged me and two others over the wet and moss-covered rocks to the shore.

Carolyn, Richard and Jude, waterfall at Casa Cabuy

Mary at the pool below Casa Cabuy

Waterfall in the Rainforest

Picture ascents where there’s nothing to grasp and footholds are slippery even when dry. Imagine steep descents of eight feet on one’s seat, where only the total compression of knees can resist the insistence of weight. My knees don’t compress and wrist tendons resist the helpful and needed assists that I got. A world unto itself, indeed! So well known to Robin that he saw no need to warn or explain, but knew the best move for each rock on the path. Our goal? Taino pictographs, attributed to first inhabitants. “They look better at dawn,” said Robin, swiping them with a wet towel. “Look now, when they’re wet. Use your imagination.” He suggested a dive neath a thundering waterfall and hinted that those undesired are sometimes thrown in. We still had to return the same way that we came, and Mary and I exchanged a big hug at the finish.

Luquillo Beach
A day on the beach capped our week, romping and swimming and eating at the beach’s famed sixty kiosks with our fellow students, Richard, Mary, and our organizational guru, poet Pam Taylor. The camaraderie of all was just as infectious and lively as the workshops and lectures had been perceptive and challenging.

VCFA Encampment on Luquillo Beach: Sophfronia, Mary, Shanalee, Carolyn, Partridge, Lillian, Richard

Evidence: I was there

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From Drawer to Store: the Birth of a Novel

Michigan Avenue near Chicago Writers Conference

The October issue of the funky online magazine, Defunct, has just gone live with my flash non-fiction piece, “Ghost Alive.” You can read it in less time than it takes to brush your teeth, so please support this charming journal about all things out of date. Speaking of which, I’ve taken down my  website. A new one will be up before long at the same address, www.maggiekast.com, but meanwhile I’m putting current information here on the blog. See the sidebar and below for links to publications.

After seven years of writing and revising, critique from my longstanding writing group, fifteen months with Fred Shafer’s wonderful novel group, and critical reading by many generous friends, I’ve put my novel, I Never Knew You Had a Girl, in a drawer and started the agent search. Research seven agents. Send targeted query letters that specify their interests or books they’ve represented. After seven rejections, revise the query letter and send seven more. That’s the strategy I learned at Chicago Writers Conference 2012 from Chuck Sambuchino. So far I’ve received several positive comments: “substantial pleasures,” “vibrant characters,” “poise and polish,” “stood out from the many we receive,”two requests for the full manuscript, but no acceptances.

My First Pitchfest at Chicago Writers Conference 2013
Here’s what I learned:

1. Practice and time your pitch.
2. Wait in clammy silence with your fellow pitchers, avoiding eye contact, in the cold, dark back of Brando’s Speakeasy. You’ll have exactly four minutes to sell your wares and four for response.
3. Greet your agent/publisher and tell your story.
4. Discover that they want not you nor your book but your subject matter, your genre (as in litfic, women’s, historical), and your audience, one each.
5. Your singularity is not a value. Your similarity to other books is. Find them, marry them to each other, and hope your book is born.
6. There’s always many ways to tell a story. Skew your pitch a dozen different ways and try them out.

Links to Older Publications
“Liberal Catholicism” in America Magazine
“Artist of the Month” in Image Journal (with link to “Contemporary Choreography: Retaining the Sacred”)
“Writing and Dancing” in Chicago Artists Resource
“Symbols: Forest of Ambiguity” in Numero Cinq
“The Hate that Chills” video of reading a story excerpted from my novel, recorded at Tuesday Funk

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Martha’s Vineyard Redux, Vinalhaven, Avi Kast

Kids grow up and get jobs; babies arrive, couples form and split, but Kast family week on Martha’s Vineyard brought a remnant together again this year for an action-packed week of surf swimming on South Beach and Aquinnah, kayaking on Sengekontacket Pond, paddle ball on Vineyard Sound, shopping at farmer’s markets and farms, and always cooking and more cooking.

Erica, Phil & Lola at South Beach

The children, grandchildren and great grandchildren of Eric Kast now range in age from four months (Avi and Arisha) to 75 (me). They live in San Francisco, Chicago, New Jersey, Vermont and Omsk, Russia. Eight of them (including partners) made it to the Vineyard, and I visited Ari, Eun and baby Avi on the way home.

Avi Kast

But names and places can’t express my delight on arriving, after a full day flight delay, to find that Erica had moved in, organized shopping and met Anton and Lola, who had flown in from San Francisco. After that the week was a whirlwind, as Erica and Phil did the hilly “Run the Chop,” a five-mile course, and lived to eat lobster rolls from Net Result,

Erica & Phil after Run the Chop

while Lola discovered the joys of chasing (and being chased by) ocean waves; Phil grilled chickens and made greens, bacon and eggs for breakfast, and conversations moved quickly from the mundane to the personal, a year of living compressed into seven days. Richard, the second oldest, physician and cancer research, commissioned Lola to find six equal-sized stones, the result the mobile in the video above. And it’s not the Vineyard without a ride on the Flying Horses. Erica captured Anton, Lola and me with that nostalgic music in the video below.  Richard and Kim’s daughter Emma arrived fresh from a summer in Brazil, just in time for a rough surf swim on South Beach.

Emma and Kim

Exhausted by a wonderful week, I rode two ferries and three buses, drowsing all the way, to the lobster-fishing island of Vinalhaven off the rocky coast of Maine. There I joined old friend, Carter Frank, and new one, Priscilla Moody, for a restful week of writing, hiking in wooded preserves, and swimming in a granite quarry. Carter led us in Tai Chi on the porch, where we focused on the gorgeous view.

View from cottage, Vinalhaven, Maine

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Why Flash Mobs?

Flash mobs proliferate, and the great ones burst into daily life, lending their beauty to the hustle and bustle in the midst of which they blossom. If you haven’t seen Sam Sabadell, take a look. Time seems to stop in the face of such an overload of meaning, and it moves me to tears each time I view it. The quiet beginning with the single, somber, bass player in concert dress and then the equally formal cellist, empty can in front of the two. The little girl who drops a coin in the can. Soon the string section rushes onto the square (from where?) dressed casually, like the crowd. When the brass arrive it’s almost as though they were storming the plaza, and suddenly an entire chorus is singing the Ode to Joy from Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony in their native language, Catalan. And the audience: the kid who climbs a lamp pole to get a better view and all the children conducting with such joy.

I recently saw a gallery performance of excerpts from “Core of the Pudel: Gutting the Legend of Faust,” Thom Pasculli’s collaborative work of physical theatre. No flash, no mob. I stood sipping wine in a public room of Chicago’s Aqua building, surrounded by big, glass windows, when suddenly violin and brass began to play. Just outside the window, a parade, and one person walking horizontally along the glass. The actors entered, singing in foreign languages, and then wrestled each other in slow motion with ferocious intensity or rushed about, hunched and muttering over the books in which Faust placed his faith. The actors were literally in our faces. Their intrusion, like the flash mob at Sabadell, suddenly charged our chit-chat and munching  with a higher level of meaning, as though we too were walking on the walls. Take a look or two.

Core of the PUDEL from Kyle Niemer on Vimeo.

Core of the PUDEL from Kyle Niemer on Vimeo.

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Touches of Cuba: a Week with Art Encounter and Hedwig Dances

Scroll to end for slideshow of photos of Cuba with music by Pablo Menendez and Mezcla.

Art galleries, dance studios, artists’ homes and the private restaurants called paladars swirl in my mind a week after my return from Cuba, refusing to locate themselves on the grid of the real. From the moment we landed and climbed into an air-conditioned, Chinese bus, we were bombarded with images, information and impressions. Slowly the din of perceptions filtered my preconceptions and new understandings emerged.

Plaza de San Francisco

1. Cuba is not isolated. We are. The fabled Hotel Nacional, where we stayed, was bursting with tourists from all over the world except the U.S. The hotel’s huge and generous breakfast buffet is designed to fit the early-morning habits of every culture: rice and curries; vegetables, potatoes and meat; all kinds of eggs, including some translated as “embezzled;” gorgeous fresh fruit, cereals, and a dozen different sweet breads.

2. Cuban art is not “outside.” Visual art ranges from works shown in the world’s major exhibitions, like the Venice Biennale, to neighborhood mosaics such as these by Juan Fuster, whose Homenaje a Gaudi (Homage to Gaudi) decorates whole blocks of Jaimanitas, a Havana suburb. The upraised hand you see on the far right of the photo below is a tribute to the five Cubans imprisoned in the U.S. since 2001 for attempting to prevent attacks on Cuba launched from Miami.

3. Cuban dance goes way beyond the typical Cuban show. It owes its unique fluidity and energy to the state-supported training in ballet, modern and folkloric (Afro-Cuban) techniques that dancers (and other artists) receive from middle-school years through university. You’ll be able to see this training in action at Hedwig Dance’s upcoming concert June 20-21, 2013,  at Chicago’s Atheneum. This company’s Cuban dancers move with the spirit of their first home, and Cuban modern company Danzabierta just might make a guest appearance.

Pais Deseado (Desired Country) by artist Tonel at La Factoria

4. Cuba is not dangerous. It’s safer than most U.S. cities and you can eat and drink everything served in paladars, government restaurants and hotels. While the U.S. office of Foreign Asset Control requires you to follow the itinerary for which your tour group is licensed, no one checks, and in fact you can go where you please. Taxis are cheap and plentiful.

5. Cubans have not given up religion. Though most of Cuba’s Catholic churches are no longer used for services, there are temples where members of our group attended lay-led Friday services, and Santeria, the Yoruba-derived religion, is alive and well. A million people attended mass celebrated by Pope John Paul in the Plaza de la Revolucion when he visited in 1998.

Chair art at La Gaurida, a paladar

6. Socialism doesn’t have to mean dreary. Our first stop, the monumental Plaza de la Revolution, is dominated by a tower memorializing José Marti, the 19th-century hero of Cuban independence from Spain. Besides the Mass mentioned above, the plaza is used for big social dances and other community events. Signs for CDF’s, Centers for Defense of the Revolution, are ubiquitous (see slideshow below) and recall times when these block groups were used for ferreting out anti-revolutionary sentiments, but now people seem to speak freely. There is no free press in Cuba and many lacks: food, medicine, pencils, paper, and books, partly caused by the U.S. embargo. Posters advocating “free the five,” symbolized by the upraised hand in the mosaic photo above, are common. Cubans neither own property nor pay rent, but individuals can improve their dwellings, and the artists’ homes we visited were gorgeous: thirty-foot ceilings, elaborate tiled floors, art on all the walls.

Click below to see a slideshow of photos of Cuba with music by Pablo Menendez and Mezcla. Give it plenty of time to load on your computer.

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Kyoto—Kaiseki Dinner at Next

Japanese Maple Forest: Appetizers for Four

Burning branch and moon

According to a scroll curled delicately on the table at Next Restaurant, “Kaiseki layers the literal, hidden, and subconscious representations of nature and humanity in food in order to transport the diner.” On the Sunday after Thanksgiving, four of us were transported.The art of the meal was impeccable, with more exquisite cultural references than I could take in or remember.

Named for the warm “bosom stones” Buddhist monks used under their robes to make them feel full, Kaiseki has come to mean a series of small courses served prior to strong, bitter tea. The dining experience is now elaborate and complex but still culminates in rice, soup and pickles, followed by tea. For the first time at Next, Erica and I were joined by friends, Harriet and Lou. The evening began with lighting of a branch, symbolizing autumn,  hung from a sculpted moon.

Our first course was a sweet and smoky cornhusk tea, uniting Japanese tradition with midwestern produce. A sort of tofu made of chestnut and miso carried the aroma of burning hay into the next course.

Japanese Maple Forest (above) was a spectacular assortmant of small appetizers, a sort of autumn, Asian counterpart to the “Winter Woods” course on Next’s Childhood menu. Among the delicious morsels were shrimp heads, bodies and legs, each prepared separately, fish roe on fried soy milk skins, and fried, shaved parsnip. Two sashimi courses followed, accompanied by a shiso dipping puree and red sea grapes. A “lidded” course came next: a rich broth, “maple dashi,” once again smoky and garnished with tiny shimeji mishrooms.

Grilled Barracuda

Substantial chunks of grilled, skewered barracuda provided more substantial food, served with a delicate wasabi leaf dip and an egg-yolk-soy sauce.

Matsutake Chawanmushi, Pine Needle

The delicate, savory custard called chawanmushi came next, while pine needles on a hot stone in the center of the table added aroma. The tiniest tempura imaginable were made of fried chrysanthemum, shiso leaf and eggplant, perfectly crisp. Sakes of increasing complexity accompanied each course, with a specially brewed Haptera Ale from Chicago’s Half Acre for the barracuda. The last savory course was the soup, rice and pickles that once were added to the kaiseki stones as prelude to matcha tea. For the second time in the meal, I felt that I was eating sustaining food, in addition to absorbing art and culture. But the art was still there, in the form of gorgeously arranged vegetables in the pot over which a broth was poured. Sticky rice and shochu “kakushigura,” a barley whiskey, accompanied.

Preparation for Soup, Rice, Pickles

“First Snowfall”

“First Snowfall” was sweet, with an edible maple leaf, a fuyu persimmon half stuffed with persimmon mousse, a fried soy milk skin, soy ice cream and a deeply caramelized carrot. The long-anticipated tea and a gelatinous “warabi mochi”, eaten in blobs speared with a stick, finished the meal.

Though autumn had ended, the moon made a farewell appearance at the end, and I felt the season had never been so closely observed or deeply celebrated. But I confess I ate a piece of squash pie when I got home.

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Turkey Trot Redux—Asian-Tinged Thanksgiving

Erica after the Turkey Trot

Erica making stuffing

Erica ran it again this year and finished ecstatic, free of the shin splits that had plagued her. Gloria Zager and I awaited her at the finish line, where cold wind whipped our hair.

Back home we continued a two-day cook-a-thon, in which each traditional Thanksgiving dish was flavored in some Asian way: star anise in the stock; green beans dry-fried with ginger, garlic and salted, fermented black bean; kale salad with fish sauce in the dressing; ginger in the cranberry sauce. Erica had discovered the colorful kale salad, which combined fine-sliced, marinated leaves with crisp baked ones. She also aced a sesame-bacon brittle that garnished miso-flavored sweet potatoes.

Cranberry sauce, bacon-sesame brittle, kale salad

Kale salad close-up

Caveny Farm provided a Bourbon Red, free-range, heritage turkey, and dry brining assured a tasty, moist bird. I tried once again for perfectly crisp Brussels sprouts, but all agreed I’d have to start again next year to raise that Sisyphean rock. Tired of watching the Kabocha Squash pie disappear every year at the holiday party before the cooks have had a taste, we made it for this smaller group. The recipe is by Pichet Ong, and it’s the best of kind.

Kabocha Squash Pie

Joan Kast, having just quit a horrible job, sat poised on the brink of

Joan Kast

an open-ended future, looking happy and relaxed as you can see.

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Endangered Island—Martha’s Vineyard

Winged creature on Lambert’s Cove cottage door

Ferry to Martha’s Vineyard

I take a deep breath of salt-laden sea air on the ferry from Wood’s Hole to Martha’s Vineyard and catch a whiff of the island’s stories: its first Wampanoag people, Puritan settlement, vanished culture of sign language and persistent Portuguese language, sweet bread and other traditions. The smell fills me with peaceful anticipation and piques a hunger to learn those stories, to help preserve the island from modern exploitation and mainland uniformity. This time perhaps I’ll explore the endlessly complex ancient ways or paths, a labyrinth that underlies the choke of modern traffic the way the funky fish smell and tacky stick of salt thicken the ocean breeze.

Dr. Fisher Road

I came here first as a child during World War II and returned five years ago for the first of five reunions of the children, grands, partners, spouses (and now a possible great-grandchild) of Eric C. Kast, my late husband.

Carter on Lambert Cove Beach

Erica in Ice House Pond

This year I planned a first, writing week for myself with Carter Frank and Erica Kast, and we stayed in Hidden Village on West Tisbury’s Lambert Cove Road. Nearby we came upon Dr. Fisher, a dirt road whose buckles rival ocean waves. Our house was deep in woods and gave me a room with desk where I worked on my novel manuscript for several hours each day, while Carter and Erica swam long distances at Lambert Cove Beach. Nearby we discovered Ice House Pond, a fresh water kettle pond preserved by the Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank, one of many organizations that strives to save land from over development.

An afternoon trip to Aquinnah (formerly Gay Head) gave us gorgeous views of the bright, clay cliffs and a glimpse of Wampanoag jewelry made form wampum, quohog shells. A winding path down to an ocean beach offers surf and a walk below the cliffs. There traditional nude bathing persists. I remember this from childhood visits to the island and was delighted to see that natural simplicity still lives, just slightly tucked away from T-shirt shops and chain store fudge.

Maggie and Carter on Senge Pond

The Mass Audobon Society offers great kayak tours of Sengekontacket Pond, an excellent way to see  the birds, crabs, plants and animals of the Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary as well as to support one more necessary effort to save the island from clogged roads and urban sprawl.

Carter with spider crab, Sengekontacket Pond

Elijjah (Aza) and Emma on East Chop Beach

Our second week on East Chop in Oak Bluffs brought together some family members who had never or almost never met: Anton, Emma, Elijjah (Aza), Lola.

Anton and Emma on the porch

Lola in the water

We reveled in the West Tisbury Farmer’s Market, cooked and ate communally (10-13 peeps each night), and played games from Bananagrams to Settlers of Cataan to Ticket to Ride. We sunned and swam and played paddle ball on the East Chop Beach and indulged in Mad Martha’s ice cream, Moon Magick fudge and Back-Door Donuts.

West Tisbury Farmer’s Market

Five years is a long time, and people grow up, as the quantity of beer bottles we recycled attests. Some of the young people grew restless without bikes or car and a limited bus system, so Erica and I resolved to develop a survey to assess each person’s priorities for location and activities. Her arts management studies come in handy!

Final night dinner

The results will affect the reunion’s future, but I’ll always return to the Vineyard. There is so much to learn for an off-island, seasonal visitor, so many paths to wander, so much history to explore. As I contemplate the island’s future, my sense of satiation returns to hunger, and I fear that the island I love cannot endure.

The Martha’s Vineyard Donors Collaborative is a consortium of island non-profits that aims to use their collective strength to sustain the Vineyard. Understanding the problem is a first step, and their excellent (downloadable) pamphlet addresses the problem with a clear, severe, but humorous and well-written warning: do something now or forget a future for the island. If you’ve ever lived there, visited the island or wanted to, download the pamphlet, watch a video, and choose your mode of action. There’s something for everyone to do.

Lola, Elijjah (Aza) and Joan blowing bubbles.

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