Monthly Archives: August 2011

Whole Group at Martha’s Vineyard

This is the fourth year our mix-and-match family has gathered at Martha’s Vineyard, and this time my West Coast sons made the trek with granddaughter Lola, making the total fourteen peeps at its height. The first couple of nights Erica

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Updates in Vienna

Vienna was my late husband’s home town when last I visited, over twenty-five years ago. He liked to feast on European details, like windows that opened inwards from the top or linear door handles. This time I stayed at the

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Sleeper Awake in Santiago

On the morning of our arrival I woke early, strangely excited, and turned up for breakfast ahead of time. Leaving from the Monte do Gozo, the Mount of Joy, we found ourselves walking not along byways or through villages but

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Graffiti at Rosa’s Bar

You can’t see much in this poster, and of course I couldn’t read it in Gallego, but the symbol is the pope’s hat, and it says, “We do not wait for you.” Dana explained that many in this poor area

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Pulpo de Gallego—Octopus for Lunch

By the time we got to Melide, where we stopped for lunch, I’d lost all sense of where and when, focussed on survival. My feet kept moving, one after the other. My body leaned toward the uphill road as I

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Orujo at Casa do Campo

The next day I switched to sandals, and my feet rejoiced in their escape from prison. The final 100 kilometers of the Camino began in Sarria, and suddenly high school students and others from all over the world filled the

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The Climb to O Cebreiro

On our first full day of hiking we climbed 1300 meters over a distance of eight kilometers, all before lunch. The 12th-century, pre-Romanesque Church of Santa Maria la Real was dark, mysterious and beautiful. In the afternoon we crossed from

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Beginning the Walk

At the bus station in Ponferrrada I met my walking companions, John and Roxanne, educators from Florida, and our guides from Spanish Steps. The guides, Dana and Virginio, had been married just a year and had met on the Camino,

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Pilgrimage Starts from Home

What’s a pilgrimage? To me it’s walking in the footsteps of others, people who’ve walked a path for centuries, walking with intention and a goal: a city or a mountain or a shrine. I’ve wanted to walk the Camino de

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